Watchmaking

WATCHMAKER TIPS???

After-sales service is one of Les Ambassadeurs' strong suits. In every boutique, our experts - a team of master watchmakers - handle repairs and servicing in specially equipped workshops, which customers can view from behind glass. This level of transparency enables customers to get an idea of what exactly happens to their watch. In this way, professional, specialised service is the key to successful after-sales service. Every watch requires a certain amount of care and monitoring a er purchase. Regardless of whether your watch is an everyday favourite or just for wear on special occasions, everyone hopes that their watch will last for as long as possible. To help make this possible, we have worked together with our team of experienced watchmakers to compile a selection of tips and helpful advice for you. Should you have further questions or suggestions, please feel free to contact us at any of our boutiques using the respective contact details provided.

01. YOUR WATCH AND DOCUMENTATION

A mechanical watch should be worn regularly; otherwise the lubricating oils inside the watch can clump, possibly damaging the movement of the gears and reducing the accuracy of your watch. Protect your timepieces from moisture and direct sunlight. Variations in temperature shorten the life span of the movement and age the strap.
If you do not wear your watch regularly, we recommend you fully wind the power reserve once to twice a month to keep it running. Another way to keep the movement mechanism wound is to activate the complications (e.g. change the date, or start/stop or reset the chronograph).

01. YOUR WATCH AND DOCUMENTATION

Never force the watch: overwinding will not increase the power reserve. Stop winding as soon as you feel resistance in the crown. Keep all your watch documentation in the same place (receipt, maintenance logbook, and records of battery changes and strap replacements). Always store the watch separately from this paperwork: in the event of the, it will be easier to recover your watch if you are in possession of all documentation. As a security measure, we recommend you document the purchase of your watch by photographing it alongside another item in your possession and, ideally, proof of the date.

01. YOUR WATCH AND DOCUMENTATION

This proof of purchase may be sought by your insurance provider if you are unable to provide the receipt (due to loss or the ). Retain a digital copy of the receipt if possible. Do not hesitate to contact our Customer Service to request a certificate of insurance or a copy of the original receipt.

HAND-WOUND WATCHES

02. SELF WINDING WATCHES

The distinguishing feature of a self winding (automatic) watch is an oscillating weight (rotor) that can be seen or heard rotating at the case back. There are two ways to wind an automatic watch.  The first method is self winding, which is selected by the motion of the wrist when the watch is running normally. Depending on your activity level, allow half a day for your watch to self wind. If the watch has stopped, it can be wound using the crown (15 to 20 turns). Thee second option is to use an automatic watch winder. More sophisticated watch winders can be conjured to the appropriate direction and speed. The correct settings for your watch will be recommended to you by our sales advisers.

02. SELF WINDING WATCHES

It is not advisable to engage in intense activity such as sports with the intention of winding your watch faster.  The natural motion of the wrist will wind the watch more gradually and is less demanding on your watch. If your watch has a screw-down crown (common in sports watches) remember to screw the crown back in a er winding to maintain water-resistance. Do not overtighten the crown as this could damage the seal and compromise the water-resistance of the watch. We recommend you set the time and date before winding your watch. You can then adjust for the elapsed minute using the crown.

SELF WINDING WATCHES

03. MANUAL WINDING WATCHES

A manual winding watch has no oscillating weight. When fully stopped it can be restarted only by winding the crown. Continue winding your watch until it is fully wound, i.e. even a er the seconds hand starts ticking. However if you feel the least resistance in the crown, stop winding immediately, as to continue at this point could cause irreversible damage to your watch without increasing its power reserve. If you feel no resistance, your timepiece is equipped with a mechanism that safeguards against overwinding. The larger the power reserve of your watch, the longer it will take to wind. Thirty to forty turns at moderate speed will usually suffice. Do not rush the operation; when you wind the crown,

03. MANUAL WINDING WATCHES

you are moving high precision components that function best at a moderate speed. Always wind the crown in a clockwise direction, turning it towards 12 o’clock. Do not tap your watch to make it start when winding. It will start by itself once sufficiently wound. If you have a manual winding sports watch with a screw-down crown, remember to fully screw in the crown after winding, taking care not to force it. The water-resistance of the watch may be compromised if the crown is not fully tightened. We recommend you set the time and date after winding your watch. You may wind your watch regularly at your convenience, for example every morning or every night,

03. MANUAL WINDING WATCHES

you do not need to wait for the watch to stop before winding it. Regular winding will help preserve the accuracy of your watch.

 THE WATCH AND ITS DOCUMENTS

04. QUARTZ WATCHES

A quartz watch is powered by a non-rechargeable battery specific to the model.  Battery life is generally two to three years, irrespective of your level of physical activity. Regular use of any complications in your watch (such as the chronograph or alarm) may reduce the battery life. If you do not wear your watch for a certain period of time, the chemical stability of the battery may become compromised. In such an event we recommend that you consult the watchmaker to ensure that there is no damage to other components in the movement. Avoid exposing a quartz watch to sunlight as the battery is sensitive to high temperatures. Also note that only a certified watchmaker can replace the battery of your watch.

 THE WATCH AND ITS DOCUMENTS

05. ADJUSTING THE WATCH

Adjusting the watch must be carried out according to a specific procedure which should be followed in order to avoid damaging the complications. Quartz and mechanical watches with only hours, minutes and occasionally seconds follow no particular instructions. However, this is not the case for adding a date or any other complication. To set the date, it is not recommended to attempt to turn it back (and additionally, very few calibres allow this). This means you have to move forward to the day before the desired date, then advance the hours and minutes to get the current date. Given that a dial indicates 12 hours, it can be difficult to know if it is midday or midnight. To do this, simply move the hands:

05. ADJUSTING THE WATCH

if the date does not change when it passes the top of the dial, it’s midday. If it changes, then it’s midnight. Setting the moon phase is based on the date, but must be carried out according to the annual full moon calendar (available online). You only need to display the last full moon on the date indicated in the calendar, and then manually change the time until it shows the current date.  The moon phase will follow automatically. The perpetual calendar is adjusted in the same way as the date. However, you must complete it by manually adjusting the day of the week, the month, the year (as well as whether or not it is a leap year) and, if needed, the calendar week.

05. ADJUSTING THE WATCH

Some watches have a push-piece or a crown which you can use to move all of these variables simultaneously, usually by advancing the hour. The operation takes longer, but is simpler. Other watches have individual correctors, which makes setting the time faster.

 THE WATCH AND ITS DOCUMENTS
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